The name Fagernes means "the beautiful headland" – from fager (beautiful) and nes (headland or peninsula). It's a common place name in Norway; you'll find a Fagernes in Tromsø, Narvik, Ringerike, Eidsvoll and several other places. But when Norwegians say "Fagernes" without further explanation, they mean this one – the regional centre of Valdres.
Fagernes sits on the shore of lake Strandefjorden, home to around 1,800 people today. But until 1857 there was almost nothing here. That year, a merchant named Otto Stuve opened a grocery store on the Nes farm. The growing settlement was first called Stuvenes after him, but Stuve didn't like that. He suggested Fagernes instead, and the name stuck. A hotel followed in 1875, and when the railway arrived in 1906, the place really took off. People moved in, tourists came, and Fagernes became the hub it remains today.
The town even had an international airport. Fagernes Lufthavn Leirin handled charter flights to Mediterranean destinations for decades, but passenger traffic ended in 2018. The runway is still open for small aircraft, and you might spot seaplanes on the lake from time to time.
The town centre has the usual shops and restaurants you'd expect from a regional hub. Fagernes park is a popular spot for locals to relax. Just outside the centre, next to Fagernes Camping, you'll find the Valdres Folk Museum – one of Norway's largest open-air museums with over 100 historic buildings. We cover it in a separate article.
But what Fagernes is really famous for is the Rakfisk Festival. Every first weekend in November, around 25,000 people descend on this small town to celebrate fermented trout. Eight local producers compete for the year's best fish, judged by both professional panels and the public. What started as a rakfisk competition has grown into one of Norway's biggest food festivals, with producers from across the country presenting regional specialities. There are concerts, parties everywhere, and hotels within a 100-kilometre radius book out months in advance.
Rakfisk is traditionally eaten on lefse – a soft flatbread – with raw onion, sour cream and dill. Most Norwegians wash it down with aquavit, and the combination works surprisingly well.
Fagernes is also an important crossroads. The E16 continues west over Filefjell to Lærdal and the fjords. Road 51 heads north to Beitostølen and on to Jotunheimen, or south to Gol in Hallingdal.
Every July, the town hosts Jørn Hilme-stemnet – Norway's oldest folk music festival, running since 1902. It's a quieter affair than the rakfisk chaos, focused on traditional Norwegian music and dance.
