Skjeggedal is where most Trolltunga hikers begin. A 180-space car park at 370 metres above sea level. From here the round trip is 27 kilometres with 800 metres of climbing. Plan 10 to 12 hours.
Until 2012, a funicular called Mågelibanen ran up the mountain from here. It was built in 1911 to service the hydropower construction, then opened to tourists in the 1950s. When it closed for safety reasons, the hike became considerably harder. A road to P3 Mågelitopp now provides an alternative, cutting out the first steep climb.
There used to be impressive waterfalls in this valley. Tyssestrengene, once 312 metres of sheer drop, was among Norway's highest. But the water was diverted for hydropower in 1967. Today you might see a trickle after snowmelt, but most of the year the cliffs are dry. A reminder that this landscape was shaped twice: once by glaciers, once by engineers.