On a headland jutting into Mjøsa lies one of Norway's most remarkable historical sites. Domkirkeodden was once the centre of medieval Hamar - a bishop's seat, cathedral, and trading town all in one. When Swedish troops destroyed it in 1567, the whole place simply ceased to exist. Unlike other medieval Norwegian towns that were rebuilt on top of the ruins, nothing was ever built here. The medieval city just lay forgotten under the soil for centuries.
The cathedral ruins are the centrepiece. Construction began around 1152 when the diocese was established, and the church stood complete by 1200 - a Romanesque basilica later expanded in Gothic style. What remains is protected by a dramatic glass and steel structure designed by Kjell Lund, completed in 1998. The acoustics inside are extraordinary, and guides often demonstrate by singing. Unfortunately, the glass cathedral is currently closed after a pane fell down in July 2025. This isn't the first time - eight panels have fallen since 2003. The closure will last well into 2026 while they work out how to make it safe again.
But there's much more here than the cathedral. In 2024, archaeologists using ground-penetrating radar discovered the lost medieval trading town, Hamarkaupangen, lying almost intact beneath a nearby field. The first excavations in summer 2025 found timber buildings dating to the 1100s, along with coins, dice, and animal bones. Because nothing was built on top, the preservation is exceptional. More digs are planned for 2026.
The rest of the museum is worth the visit even with the glass cathedral closed. Storhamarlåven is a converted 18th-century barn, redesigned by the celebrated architect Sverre Fehn into a museum building that's won international acclaim. You can walk on 16th-century cobblestones and explore the bishop's cellars. The open-air section has around 60 historic buildings from the Hedmark region, and there's Norway's largest herb garden with over 400 plants.
The museum is open from mid-May to mid-September. The rest of the year you can book group tours in advance. It's about a 30-minute walk along the lakeside from the railway station, or take bus B21.