Between Lærdal and Aurland there's an alternative to the tunnel: a 48 kilometre mountain crossing reaching 1306 metres. This is Aurlandsfjellet, also known as Snøvegen - the Snow Road. The nickname comes from the snow that lines the road most of the summer. Even in July you can touch snowdrifts while wearing shorts.
The road opened in 1967 as a construction road. For decades it was the only connection between these two fjord communities. When the Lærdal Tunnel opened in 2000, this became a National Tourist Route instead - one of 18 scenic roads maintained for their beauty rather than efficiency.
Up on the plateau around Flotane, the landscape is barren and desolate - rock, snow, small lakes, and a power line as the only evidence humans exist. The road here is reasonably wide; two cars can pass without problems. The challenging sections are the climbs at each end. From Aurland, seven hairpin bends wind up through steep terrain. From Lærdal, it's slightly wider but still narrow in places with some steep sections. On busy summer days, especially when cruise ships are in Flåm, expect traffic jams where inexperienced drivers meet tour buses on the bends.
The road is closed from around mid-October to early June. Exact dates depend on snow - check vegvesen.no before planning. Even after opening, it can close overnight in bad weather.
People do drive motorhomes over Aurlandsfjellet - a 6-metre campervan is manageable if you're comfortable with mountain roads. Larger vehicles need more experience and patience. The climb from Aurland requires more careful driving than from Lærdal.
At Flotane, the rest area at 1200 metres, you can stay overnight for free. There are solar-powered toilets and space for about 10 vehicles. Maximum stay is 72 hours. Some people wild camp further up on the plateau - it's one of the more atmospheric places to wake up in Norway.